The Designer’s Contribution to the 3D Knit Ecosystem

The term 3D knitting is used in popular media and marketing to describe textile products knit in a single, shaped piece, without seams. 3D knit products provide: increased comfort in wearable items, greater product integrity, new design possibilities, reduction in manual labour, and new opportunities to integrate “smart” fibres. Due to the complex machinery and software used for this type of fabrication, designers engaging with 3D knitting require a different mindset compared to traditional cut and sew or knit design processes. This research was framed by the question: What role do designers play in the current 3D knit ecosystem? A secondary question asked: What are the opportunities and challenges in expanding designers’ skills for 3D knitting? Qualitative inquiry was used to examine designers’ experience in the 3D knit ecosystem in Canada and the United States from the perspectives of three primary stakeholders: designers, software technicians (programmers), and production managers (manufacturers). Modified touchstone tours including semi-structured interviews were conducted with participants (n=18) from the three key stakeholder groups at companies (n=10) across Canada and the United States. Thematic analysis was used to identify and organize key themes from the data. Results indicate that 3D knitting provides benefits in five categories: consumer/product, manufacturer, design and development, business strategy, and sustainability. Challenges and roadblocks were identified in four categories for all stakeholders: costs, education and employment, design and development, and communication. Challenges identified by one stakeholder group were frequently mirrored by or connected to the experience of another group. Results suggest that tacit knowledge contributes to the communication bottleneck in the 3D knit ecosystem. As access to 3D knitting increases, designers’ responsibilities and the scope of their considerations in the design and development process must expand. Designers who understand the goals and priorities of the other stakeholder groups are better equipped to successfully navigate the 3D knit design and development process. This research has implications for current practices in textile and apparel production as well as for higher education institutions preparing design students for careers in this evolving industry.